John the gentle giant and the mystique of Irungu Forest Lodge

July 13, 2025 in Travel & Tourism by Editor

By the time the sun throws its first golden slants across the shrubs of Katunguru, a familiar silhouette begins to lumber into view. Towering, silent, and majestic—John, the patriarch of a local elephant herd, is making his usual morning rounds at Irungu Forest Lodge, much to the delight of wide-eyed children and camera-clutching visitors. Unbothered by the attention, John’s real interest lies in something far less glamorous: a pile of discarded watermelon rinds from the lodge’s kitchen.

“He passes by like clockwork,” says Ronnie, the lodge’s proprietor. “Around 7 am, and then again after sunset, usually at 8 pm.” For the guests at Irungu, John is not just a wildlife spectacle—he’s a legend. A quiet, gentle giant who has formed an unspoken pact with humans: let me snack in peace, and I’ll bring the wild to your doorstep.

Where Wilderness Meets Community

Irungu Forest Lodge sits at a rare intersection of civilization and raw nature, perched on the edge of the Kazinga Channel, which divides Queen Elizabeth National Park. The property is uniquely split into two wings—on one end, the dining area encircled by a few charming cottages; on the other, a larger stretch of accommodation nestled in thick shrubbery. Between them lies an open corridor—part animal highway, part village courtyard.

“It’s a fascinating space,” Ronnie explains. “During the day, kids play football, and in the evening, you might spot a buffalo or a warthog wandering through, sometimes even squeezing past the local houses on their way to drink from the channel.”

The animals know the game. This corridor, close to human activity, offers a kind of accidental sanctuary—far from lions and crocs, safer by night.

Nature Up Close

There’s something enchanting about Irungu that goes beyond its affordability or strategic location. It’s in the nighttime lullabies of hyenas and hippos. The antelopes that tiptoe near your veranda at dawn. Or in the quiet rustle of leaves when an elephant like John decides to join your morning coffee.

But the real showstopper is the Kazinga Channel itself.

At Ronnie’s invitation, we climb aboard a modest boat for an evening cruise. At just $10 per person—plus an $8 park fee—it’s a steal for what turns out to be one of the most intimate wildlife encounters in Uganda. As the light fades and the channel glows bronze, hippo pods grunt in chorus while crocodiles lie like fallen logs on the banks, barely blinking.

Our guide explains that each night, hippos leave the water to graze, trekking up to 15 kilometers inland under the cover of darkness. The water might be their fortress, but the bushes are their buffet.

The Sudhir Cottage: A Legend Within a Legend

Irungu has another story—one whispered in laughter and speculation among guests: the Sudhir Cottage.

One September, Ronnie recalls, a mysterious group made a reservation for the entire lodge. No names, no fuss. Just a block booking. Then, on the eve of Uganda’s Independence Day, several luxury SUVs rolled in. Out stepped a party of well-dressed Indians with personal chefs, supplies, and a quiet air of importance.

Amid the bustle, Ronnie noticed a composed man with distinguished greying hair. It was Sudhir Ruparelia, Uganda’s best-known business magnate and a giant in the hospitality industry. That one visit, Ronnie chuckles, changed everything.

“Ever since word got out, everyone who stays here wants the Sudhir cottage,” he laughs. “Even in your group—at least three of you have asked about it.”

He won’t say which one it is, of course. That’s part of the charm. “I leave it a mystery. Let everyone imagine they slept in the same cottage as Sudhir.”

Why Irungu Is Worth the Detour

In a country brimming with wild escapes, Irungu Forest Lodge manages to feel personal. Whether it’s a legendary elephant named John, a boat ride through crocodile country, or just the mystique of a billionaire’s favourite hideaway, Irungu is full of surprises.

It’s affordable, authentic, and soaked in the kind of immersive storytelling that only nature—and a clever host like Ronnie—can offer.

So, next time you plan to explore the wonders of Queen Elizabeth National Park, consider making Irungu your base. You might not know for sure which cottage Sudhir slept in, but with luck, you’ll get a nod from John on his evening rounds—and that, in itself, is a story worth telling.

Getting There

Tucked on the southern bank of the Kazinga Channel, Irungu Forest Lodge sits quietly between the towns of Rubirizi and Kasese. For self-drivers, the lodge is just a three-minute detour off the Kasese–Ishaka Highway, making it one of the most accessible lodges within the Queen Elizabeth National Park area.

Even for those relying on public transport, Irungu’s location is refreshingly convenient—you can hop off at Katunguru trading centre and simply walk to the lodge. Whether you’re coming in from Mbarara or Fort Portal, the journey here is part of the adventure: dramatic savannah landscapes, crater lakes, and the possibility of spotting elephants, buffalo or kob right from the roadside.